![]() Howard Deutch |
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June 1, 1997
Now that the sun shines on a warmed land our minds and hands turn to garden chores. Perhaps this is the time for that much postponed task, building steps down a steep terrace. I did so when Kay no longer would descend to the lower level on the slippery grass. It turned out to be most simple, requiring only slabs of pebble encrusted concrete and bricks. For a while I toyed with the idea of a doubly curved series of steps but reconsidered when confronted with the problem of an equally curved hand railing. I took the easy way out, a straight set of steps.
The steps themselves are of cast concrete. Pebbles are embedded in one surface for both decoration and traction. The slabs are 18 inches deep, 24 inches wide and 2 inches thick. You may, if you wish, stain them a color other than concrete. I used a mixture of linseed oil thinned with a petroleum-based solvent(kerosene could also be used) and standard wood stain. The linseed oil helps prevent spalling ( surface peeling ) from moisture penetration and the alternate freezing and thawing of our Zone 5 weather. The wood stain is added judiciously. Remember that the color is much darker before the solvent evaporates.
The heavy clay soil ( ? ) we have provided an ideal firm base for the slab steps. The slope was excavated two steps and one riser at a time and the steps fitted one at a time. The bricks are the risers. Have the steps overhang the risers by about a half inch. If the slope is most gentle, the bricks used as risers may be laid face down.
Some sort of side support is required to prevent the earth from collapsing into the inside corner of the steps that are below ground level. I used strips of Backer Board. Backer Board is a sheet of concrete, nominally one half inch thick with both surfaces reinforced with cloth mesh. It is generally used in place of Gypsum wallboard to enclose wet areas such as tub or shower stalls. It must be cut with a power saw and a masonry-cutting blade. It really cuts most readily. In the absence of a power saw, you may use pressure treated lumber, certified for ground contact. The little drawing, below, shows the side earth support only on the right side, looking into the steps.
On one side of the steps I planted Cotoneaster. It requires continuous pruning to keep it from intruding into the steps. On the other side I terraced the slope with twenty-four inch wide slabs of Pennsylvania Bluestone imbedded into the earth with their eighteen-inch depth. This made a series of earthen steps for the planting of Chrysanthemums for a blaze of fall color. Kay can now descend to the lower part of the garden with ease and help pick the tomatoes.
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